Raising a Glass with Joann Maplesden

We sat down with Joann Maplesden, Waddington’s Senior Specialist in our Fine Wine and Spirits department, to trace her path from hospitality to the world of auction, and to get a behind-the-scenes look at what it takes to bring exceptional bottles to the secondary market. She shares the mentors, moments, and lessons that shaped her career — as well as advice for bidders new to the bidding process.

Joann, you’ve done many things in your career. Tell us about your trajectory and how you ended up in the world of fine wine & spirits.

My journey in hospitality began with a summer job at the Royal York Hotel. On my first day, my very strict trainer told me to leave my emotions and troubles at home when I came to work. That small piece of professional advice has carried with me throughout all aspects of my career.  The hotel was an exciting place to work with all the celebrities, kitchens and activity. Ella Fitzgerald would put on a performance for the staff when she was booked in the Imperial Room, the Royal Family would walk through the lobby to everyone clapping and Peter O’Toole would drink in the Library Bar. I worked there for over ten years, throughout my university days and then afterwards. It was there I learned about the art of fine service, wine and food.

When I left the Library Bar, I became a manager at the iconic Le Select Bistro on Queen Street West. Susur Lee was working down the street at Peter Pan and Michael Olson was a George Brown student cooking nights for the bistro. At Le Select, not only did I expand my knowledge of wine and beer, but I learned how to be a restaurant manager. When they closed for renovations, I went back to waitressing until Michael Stadtländer approached me about managing his new restaurant. The idea was to create a tasting menu centered around Canadian cuisine. We got backing from Tom Kristenbrun of Chrysalis Restaurants and we opened Nekah.

At the time a tasting menu and wine parings for $60/person (wine additional) was considered outrageous. We were one of the first restaurants in Canada to hire a sommelier for wine selections. When we put an ad in the Toronto Star for a sommelier, we only had two applicants. We also supported Ontario wineries and hosted many events to show off Canadian food and wine. Not only did we establish the Feast of the Fields, but we were part of the inaugural Taste of Toronto. It was revolutionary.

Although Nekah was a culinary success, it suffered financially. Unfortunately, the restaurant closed after only two years, but not before putting a permanent mark on the Canadian culinary landscape. After Nekah, I managed Scaramouche and helped organize an event with Paul Bertolli from Chez Panisse. After that I moved briefly to Orso until I started raising my family.

Seeing as the hours in the service industry were not ideal for raising children, I started working for wine agents, specializing in logistics. I spent many years helping different agencies grow while being immersed in the wine world, travelling and establishing global connections. There are so many highlights, but organizing a wine dinner for Christian Moueix, where we served 1989 Pétrus (currently selling in the global fair market for $4,500 a bottle) was truly memorable. On top of the wine experience, I also established a sake agency in Toronto and am a certified sake specialist.

At Waddington’s, I am fortunate to help the community sell their valuable collections, while offering buyers all the gems their cellars and racks are missing.

What makes Waddington’s Wine & Spirits department unique?

We are a small, very transparent and efficient team that focuses on attention to detail and excellence. We are service oriented and enjoy helping our clients achieve the results they are hoping for.  Over ten years we have established a loyal client base of vendors and buyers.

What would the average person not know about what you do? Tell us about what it takes to get the Wine & Spirits auctions ready.

I think the auction world seems complicated to understand, but it really very straightforward for the buyers and sellers. We help the process to be friendly and successful. There are many components that go into bringing prized possessions to the auction table. For wine, it begins with provenance and storage of this ‘living’ product. From there, the current Global Fair Market Value has to be determined. This value is estimated through researching all the auctions around the world and determining what the product is currently selling for globally. If the consigner agrees on the current value, then each bottle of wine is inspected and notated for condition. Then it’s on to photography, cataloguing and storage in optimum conditions, until the bottles are sold and picked up by their new owner.  The administrative side includes lotting, launching the galleries online, marketing, writing text about the lots, maintaining accounts and offering tastings and informative workshops. It’s very detail-oriented work. We want to make sure the clients consigning are satisfied while at the same time the buyers are getting the highest quality wines and spirits.

What do you look for when it comes to accepting bottles at Waddington’s?

We always start with provenance and storage. If a wine’s provenance — its source, life cycle and storage — isn’t pristine, not even the finest vintage from the grandest of grand crus can be offered by us at auction. For serious wine collectors, provenance is paramount. They want to know where the wines were bought, where and how they were stored. The most common visible symptoms of poor storage are signs of seepage, low levels, poor colour and shrunken corks.

What was the most memorable bottle or collection that you have seen at Waddington’s?

We have had a rare vertical of Mouton Rothschild from 1945-2000, 56 bottles that realised more than $57,000. This was a very special lot.

What sort of wine/spirits do you like to drink at home?

Ultimately for me it’s really about the pairing of wine and food. As one sommelier always reminded me, wine is food. Working with some of the top chefs in Ontario has taught me a lot about authenticity and that’s what I look for in my own pairings. My advice is to trust in the wineries with strong intentions and sustainable practices, and enjoy all of their wines.

What bottles should collectors be looking for at auction? What still represents great value?

Currently, the most traded wines are First Growth Bordeaux, Grand Cru Burgundies, Vintage Champagne, Red Rhônes, Barolos, Super Tuscans, Cult Napa, and Rioja. With wine production at a fixed rate these luxury wines become scarcer all the time, driving up price and demand.

Advice for a new collector looking to get into the world of Wine & Spirits auctions?

Just jump in and place a bid! Whether for sharing, gifting, or cellaring, there’s something for everyone in our auctions. If you’re a serious new collector, my advice is to is start with investing ten thousand dollars and plan out the next ten years. Whatever your immediate desire, Waddington’s is here to help!

Many thanks to my wonderful mentors; Ed Mady, Jean-Jacques Quinsac, Frederic Geiswieller, Peter Oliver, John Maxwell, Michael Carlevale, Mark McEwan, Miriam Rogers, John Szabo, Rob Groh, Michael and Nobuyo Stadtländer, Michael Olson, Scott Hall, Rob Jull, Dan Ruddick, Maya Dille, Morden Yolles, David Beauroy, Tom Pennachetti, Marilena Cocci Grifoni, Duncan and Tess McLean and all the amazing winemakers and oenophiles who have enriched my life beyond expectations.