The History of Cognac: From Grape to Glass

Cognac is one of the world’s most distinguished spirits, renowned for its elegance, complexity, and rich heritage. For the uninitiated, cognac is a type of brandy made from white wine grapes exclusively grown in the Cognac region of France. Understanding cognac not only requires a sophisticated palate, but an appreciation for the confluence of culture, trade, and craftsmanship that has shaped its legacy.

Not French But… Dutch?

By the 15th century, the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions of western France were known for producing excellent wines. Enterprising Dutch merchants, looking to export the product for sale in Northern Europe, found that the wine would spoil before reaching its final destination. The solution they found was to distill the product upon its arrival in the Netherlands. Due to this process, they began referring to the product  as “brandwijn” (“burnt wine”), which became anglicized as “brandy.”

Ever practical, the Dutch soon realised that it would be more economical to distill the wine before export, thus reducing their freight costs. Distilleries were set up in France, using copper stills from Amsterdam. The process was further refined by the French.

By the 17th century, producers began double distillation in these copper pot stills: a method known as distillation charentaise. This process heightened the purity and complexity of the spirit, making it more stable for transportation, and laid the groundwork for the sophisticated flavor profile that cognac would become famous for. The Dutch influence not only shaped production techniques but also helped establish the international market that would define cognac’s global reputation.

Protecting the Brand

By the 18th century, many of the cognac brands known today were founded, including Martell (1715), Rémy Martin (1724), Delamain (1759), Hine (1763), Hennessy (1765), and Otard (1795). It became important for these merchants to standardize and protect the identity of their product. French authorities began regulating production, ultimately creating one of the world’s earliest appellations. Fans of fine wine will recognize that the “AOC” designation, which stands for Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (controlled designation of origin), applies to cognac as well.

In 1909, cognac became a legally protected designation of origin under French law, stipulating that authentic cognac must be produced in specific geographic zones within the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions. These zones are divided into six crus, or growth areas: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. Each cru contributes unique characteristics to the spirit, influenced by soil composition, grape variety, and microclimate. This legal framework ensured that cognac remained tied to its geographic roots and maintained its reputation for quality.

What Does It Take to Be Cognac?

Apart from where it is made, there are other requirements for official cognac. Firstly, it must be composed from specific grape varieties, mainly Ugni Blanc. Ugni Blanc accounts for about 98% of all cognac vineyards. Naturally high in acidity and low in sugar, it yields a lean white wine that stands up to distillation. Other permitted varieties include Folle Blanche, a historic grape that predates the phylloxera crisis; Colombard; and the more recent Montils and Folignan varieties.

Secondly, cognac must be twice distilled in copper pot stills, and thirdly, must be aged in oak barrels for a minimum of two years. Aging is essential to cognac’s development. During this period, chemical reactions between the spirit, wood, and oxygen create the complex bouquet and smoothness that cognac is known for. Cognacs are classified according to age, with terms such as VS (Very Special, minimum two years), VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale, minimum four years), and XO (Extra Old, minimum ten years), reflecting the maturation period rather than quality alone.

Cognac Around the World

By the 19th and 20th centuries, cognac had become a symbol of luxury and refinement worldwide. Its popularity surged in Russia, the United States, and Asia, where it was embraced both as a celebratory drink and a status symbol. Bartenders enjoy mixing it into cocktails, while aesthetes enjoy the beautiful bottles crafted by some of the leading luxury glass makers. Cognac represents a synergy of geography, history, craftsmanship, and commerce. Indeed, those early Dutch merchants would be proud of the spirit’s legacy: some 97% of cognac is enjoyed by drinkers outside of France.

Cognac at Auction

Cognac makes a star turn in many of our Fine Spirits auctions. Though Waddington’s presents a small, carefully chosen selection of bottles per auction, it often achieves the highest price per bottle, surpassing even premium whiskies. Our specialists, Joann Maplesden and Devin Hatfield, both agree that no bar or home is complete without a valuable cognac available to toast the night. Joann notes that “you don’t have to be famous to enjoy the nuances of a spirit like Hennessy. With years of history behind these special bottles and collaborations with finest renowned crystal glass makers, how could anyone go wrong? History and expertise are found in the aged, rare spirit and housed in a decanter with the same exceptional credentials.”

About the Auction

Our November 2025 Spirits auction presents a vast collection curated for all collectors and imbibers. Highlights include Japanese whiskies, a variety of American Bourbons and Single Malts from Rare Malt Selections. Included are special and rare Cognacs from Hennessy, Hardy’s, Martell and Rémy Martin and for the Macallan connoisseur, the M bottle. An expression and a wee dram for everyone!

For consignment information please contact us at [email protected] or visit the Fine Wine & Spirits Consignments page for more information.